Saturday, July 10, 2010
Maine: Days 17-23
We have been on the midcoast of Maine for the past week in the small town of Damariscotta. It has been a nice change of pace after busy Boston and all of its history. Maine has been more about natural beauty, the ocean, light houses and seafood. Like the other New England states, Maine is full of small towns with a cute Main St. and big historic homes, except here each one has a harbor full of boats too. There is also a ruggedness and independence in Maine that reminds me of Alaska.
Our home for the week...notice the lobster traps outside
Much of our Maine experience has been shaped by the generous hospitality of the couple we rented our little cottage from. Upon arrival, landlord Richard greeted us with fresh eggs from his chicken coop. His log cabin, which was adjacent to our place, came equipped with chickens, pheasants, two cute dogs and a lifesize teepee that he built last winter because he was bored. We immediately could tell this was going to be an interesting week!
The house chickens and providers of our fresh eggs
After a day of catching up on laudry and sleep, we decided to head out on one of the boats that came with the property. My plan was to take a regular canoe out, but Richard insisted I take one with a motor so we could see more. My protests of inexperience fell on deaf ears, and finally I gave in. Fifteen minutes later (I still can't believe this happened), Erika, Harper and I were bobbing up and down in the water next to our overturned boat! Thank goodness for life jackets! Unfortunately Richard's brief lesson didn't give me the skills to deal with a big wake. Luckily he was following us in a bigger boat and could pull our wet selves to safety. I think I will stick to paddles from now on!
Erika and Harper right before we tumped over...
...and us all wet after. Don't worry, everyone's okay!
Our sunset view each night
Despite this mishap, Richard still invited me along to accompany him lobstering the following day. I couldn't turn down this uniquely Maine activity. Unfortunately Erika and Harper had to stay back, but they enjoyed some good relaxing and shopping downtown. Equipped with protective apron and gloves, I quickly learned how to pull traps, extract and measure lobster, band their claws and deal with rotten bait. It was five hours of hard work, and I smelled like a tackle shop, but it was very cool. When I got back, we boiled them up and had more lobster than we could even eat.
Richard dropping a fresh lobster trap.
Me banding the lobsters claws. I was never pinched, but they sure tried!
In the bucket you go!
Showing off two of our day's catch. We hauled in 31 fresh lobster!
Back at the house, we promptly boiled them up. The seaweed is to keep them cool while they wait. I felt sad for them, but they sure tasted good!
All boiled up and ready to be eaten.
Erika, who is not a seafood person, was thrilled to open the refrigerator door to find these guys staring back at her!
Harper loved the family dogs, Yoohoo and Shy Girl. Every time she sees or hears one, she says, "Dah! Dah!"
Enjoying some of Mom's swings
Richard took us back out on the boat...
...for a little tour of the area coves...
...(he drove this time!).
This was random but cool. The next-door neighbor was a retired MIT engineer who now tinkers with Model T's.
He offered to take us out on an ice cream run in his 1927 Model T.
How could we say no? Harper loved facing forward for once (no seatbelts, but the max speed was about 35)! Again, more generous hospitality in Maine!
One morning we drove down to the Pemaquid Point Lighthouse.
It was foggy, as usual, but rocky and quite beautiful. And Harper loved it!
We looked at tidepools and hiked all around the rocks...
...and checked out the old lighthouse. This is the one on the Maine quarter.
Later that night, we had a good old-fashioned lobster bake. It's kinda like a Maine luau of sorts. You start with a layer of seaweed, then add lobster and potatoes.
Then more seaweed, corn and clams, more seaweed and cover with wet newspaper. Put it all on top of an open fire...
...and let steam until done. It tasted gooo-ooood! And watching it all happen with Erika at sunset made it even better! Harper was already asleep so it felt like a special outdoor date.
The next day we ignored the weather forecast (rain!) and made a daytrip north to Acadia National Park. It was the first National Park east of the Mississippi and encompasses most of a beautiful rocky island. We hiked along the shore and up to a bunch of viewpoints, drove the scenic drive, picnicked and generally had a great (and long) outdoorsy day.
Me and the little monkey hiking around.
One of the stunning viewpoints we were rewarded with after a very steep climb.
Erika captured this impressive buck with velvety horns as he retreated into the forest. We thought at first glance that it might be a moose, which we have badly wanted to see while up here. So far, no luck.
After many lullabies, Harper finally gave in and took a quick nap as we climbed up this hike.
Maine had some pleasant surprises and getting to know the area through some of the locals really enriched our experience. Next up...a week in Vermont! We've been on the coast since Rhode Island, so it will be nice to spend some time in the mountains (and Erika's hoping to get some good cheese).-Brent
